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SUTJESKA NEMZETI PARK

Bosznia-Hercegovina délkeleti szegletében van egy legendás völgy, mely 1943-ban véres csata helyszíne volt. Tito és partizánjai a Zelengora és a Maglić-hegység közötti szűk völgyben áttörve menekültek ki a nácik szorításából. Az egykori ütközetre a Hősök völgye elnevezésű impozáns emlékmű emlékeztet Tjentište faluban.

Ha azonban másra is kíváncsiak vagyunk, akkor a Suha-patak völgyén keresztül gyalogszerrel vagy autóval, a Dragos-nyereg érintésével közelíthetjük meg Bosznia legmagasabb csúcsát, a Maglićot. Ha az előbbit választjuk, akkor egy kemény kaptató végén érhetünk fel a Perućica őserdő peremére. A terület Európa egyik utolsó, érintetlen őserdeje. Szigorúan védett, belépni csak kísérővel lehet. Ám a keskeny gerincen kanyargó ösvényen maradva erre nincs szükség. A hatalmas fenyők és bükkök között felsejlik a Volujak tömbje, majd kiérünk a Prijevor füves nyergére, ahol gyönyörű körpanoráma fogad minket. Ugyanide ér fel a faluból kanyargó, meglehetősen rossz állapotú, nagyjából 20 km hosszú autóút is. A táv harmadánál mogorva ranger kér némi eurót a belépésért, majd  fél távnál megállhatunk, hogy a Perućica túlsó pereméről kitekintve megcsodáljuk a távoli Skakavac vízesést.

A Prijevor-nyeregből meredek ösvény indul a Maglić csúcsára. Ha a szeszélyes időjárás elől menekülni kell, akkor az ott lakó birkapásztorok házikóiban kaphatunk menedéket és egy csésze igazán autentikus török kávét.

Rövid pihenő és egy bő órás ereszkedés után a Suha-völgy felső szakaszára jutunk, ahonnan combos mászás után érhető el a Trnovacko-tó. De ez már Montenegró, ahol Milos, a jó kedélyű ranger minden turistától legombol egy eurót. Sokan tábort vernek a szív alakú tó partján, hogy aztán az előbbinél jóval könnyebb úton másszák meg a Maglić csúcsát. Mi az Suha-patak völgyén át, időnként a vízben gázolva jutottunk vissza az országúthoz.

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Velika Kapela-hegység
Paklenica Nemzeti Park
Sjeverni Velebit Nemzeti Park
Zelengora
Közép-Velebit